How to Get Your Lawn Ready for Spring

Apr 06, 2022On The Way Outdoor

Mower Tune-up Steps

  1. First, change the oil. It is recommended that you change the oil at least once per season or after approximately 25 hours of use. We offer mower maintenance kits that make it easier for you by providing the right oil for your engine.
  2. Next, change the air filter.
  3. After that, change the spark plug. Spark plugs should be replaced every season. All you need to do is replace the old spark plug with the new one.
  4. Lastly, you can add a fuel stabilizer every time you fill your gas can. Adding a fuel stabilizer will protect your engine against gum and varnish build up in the fuel system. A fuel stabilizer will also work to prevent fuel related engine problems.

Give your lawn a fresh start by tackling areas that need to be spruced up. Start by pruning dead or damaged branches. Use a handsaw for any stems larger than ½ inch in diameter. Later, cut back and divide perennials as needed.  Next, clean up around plants. Rake out fallen leaves and dead foliage. Additionally, pull up spent annuals. Toss all of this in a wheelbarrow with other natural yard waste. You can also tidy up hardscape surfaces such as paths and patios. Last but not least, use pressure washer to remove slimy algae spots or leaf stains- this is a great way to get your outdoor space looking extra clean for the new season.

Early spring is an excellent time for lawn corrections- including spot repairs. Start this process by rooting out any underlying issues. This will help prevent repeat bare spots in the future. Some underlying causes of the damage (i.e., snow removal or household pets) might be more apparent. Other less obvious sources of the spots will require further inquiry. Taking time to identify and correct issues will help repaired spots thrive.

Once the main problems have been addressed, it is time to prepare the bare spots for repair.  Mow the damaged spots and surrounding areas. Remove damaged or deceased grass to reveal the clean soil underneath. Some bare spots will need to be leveled. To do this, add or remove topsoil, rake spots swiftly, and even out the surface. Smooth, loose soil will allow new seedlings to take hold. Products such as pre-emergent herbicides or weed-and-feed hinder seed germination and rooting. Therefore, delay adding these products to newly repaired areas.

Next, choose a repair mixture that is best suited for your environment, grass type, and sunlight exposure. Smooth the mixture over the soil. Apply it at a rate of 1 cup per square foot. Cover exposed soil thoroughly, and water the seeding mixture properly. Watering is the most important part of the spot repair process. Adjust your watering schedule to keep repaired areas moist but never soggy.

Seedlings will emerge 7-21 days after repair (depending on the mix). They will reach mowing height in three to four additional weeks.

A weed is any plant that is growing where it is not wanted. Lawn weeds are either broadleaf, grassy, or grass-like.  

If you do not have many weeds, you can hand-pull them. Some annual weeds have shallow roots and are usually easily controlled with hand-pulling. For the more stubborn weeds, you can spot treat with a ready-to-use weed control product. Be sure to read the instructions on the label before applying any product. When used as directed, a weed control product labeled for use on lawns will target listed weeds without damaging the lawn. Be sure to also check the product label to confirm that it can be used on your grass type.

Tips For Preventing Weeds

Tip 1: Your lawn has a higher chance of being overtaken by weeds if it does not receive proper lawn care and regular feeding. Feeding your lawn with a fertilizer every 6 to 8 weeks during the growing season is imperative. It will help your lawn stay thick and lush, leaving less space for weeds to grow. Aerating or dethatching will also give your lawn valuable support.

Tip 2: Raise your mower height before you mow again. Mowing at a taller height (typically one of the two highest settings on your mower) helps the grass grow tall and thick. This will shade the soil so weed seeds are less likely to sprout and grow.

Tip 3: Water your lawn deeply and infrequently. This method will help your lawn grow deeper roots so it can better compete with weeds.

Lawn fertilizer helps your lawn stay healthy by promoting new leaf and root growth, aiding in recovery from damage, decreasing and managing weeds, and replacing lost nutrients. When choosing a lawn fertilizer, you will want to consider several factors. These include where you live, what type of grass you have, and what season it is.

 

Fertilization Prep

Step 1: Identify your grass type.

Step 2: Do a soil test. Use a home testing kit to help determine which fertilizer is best for your grass. Your county extension office may offer analysis as well.

Step 3: Determine your lawn size. First, multiply the length of your lawn by its width. Next, subtract the square footage of the house, driveway, and other areas you want to fertilize.

Fertilizing Your Lawn

Different types of grass need fertilizer at different times, so it is vital that you feed your grass at the right time. In general, you should fertilize while your lawn is actively growing. It takes dedication, but a consistent fertilizing schedule will result in a beautiful lawn year after year.   

Fertilizing Warm-Season Grasses

For quality results, fertilize the grass when it starts to turn green in the spring. Use either slow-or quick-release fertilizer and time your feeding schedule so that it’ll be used up before the onset of severe hot summer weather. Fertilize again after the intense heat has subsided.

Fertilizing Cool-Season Grasses

The growing season for cool-season grasses is mainly in the cool months of spring and fall. Fertilize heavily in the fall and lightly in early spring with either slow-release or quick-release fertilizer.

Fertilizer Application

Follow the steps below for either dry fertilizer or liquid fertilizer.

Broadcasting Fertilizer Granules

  • Step 1: Load the spreader. Make sure the spreader and fertilizer are dry. Follow the instructions on the fertilizer bag for setting the flow rate. The hopper vent should be closed. Put the spreader on a hard surface and slowly fill the hopper.
  • Step 2: Apply the fertilizer by running it around the perimeter of the lawn and then back and forth across the rest of the lawn. The hopper vent should be open. 
  • Step 3: Thoroughly clean up the spreader and your outdoor space.

Spraying Liquid Fertilizer

  • Step 1: Prepare the sprayer. The Oregon 20 liter backpack sprayer gives you flexibility while completing this job. Simply attach it to the hose if the liquid fertilizer comes in its own hose-end sprayer bottle. However, if the fertilizer needs a separate sprayer, follow the instructions on the package to fill the sprayer canister with liquid fertilizer.
  • Step 2: Apply the liquid fertilizer by activating the spray. Move at a steady pace to cover the lawn evenly- walk slowly and spray from side to side.
  • Step 3: Clean the sprayer thoroughly before storing.

Broadcast spreaders (or rotary spreaders) drop fertilizer from a hopper onto a spinning disc. It is then dispersed over the lawn. Drop spreaders cover straight lines with little waste, but they must be used very carefully to avoid creating stripe markings. 

There are several things to consider before you pull out the mower and start cutting down that new spring growth. First and foremost, it is essential to look at lawn conditions before you begin. The healthy burst of grass activity at the beginning of the spring season will keep your lawn lush and vibrant the rest of the year. Next, evaluate the condition of your mower. It is recommended that mower blades should be sharpened or replaced after 25 hours of use. When the tips of your grass become brown and ragged it is time to replace your blades. The grass becomes less capable of storing water and is more susceptible to disease. 

After that, ask yourself these five simple questions:

1. How tall is the grass?

Wait until your grass reaches at least 2 inches tall before mowing. This will give it time to grow solid and healthy roots. A good rule of thumb to follow is to not take more than a third of its length so it doesn’t die before it has time to properly develop.  

2. Are you overseeding this year?

Another popular spring activity is overseeding. You’ll need to set up a schedule of seeding, mowing, and fertilizing that won’t cause further damage. In most cases, you’ll need to wait until late spring (April-May) to begin mowing. If you need a seeder to help you with this task, we carry a variety of options. 

3. How recently did you fertilize?

As previously mentioned, spring is a great time to fertilize because it has a high rate of new growth. The grass consumes nutrients at a much faster rate during this time of year. Give the nutrients a chance to be absorbed before you mow.

4. Where do you live?

Location will have a large impact on your mowing schedule as well. This is especially true if you live where late frosts, or an excess of rain are a possibility. If freezing is possible, you should mow the grass longer than normal to prevent the frost from killing the rest of the plant. In general, pay close attention to the weather conditions. Additionally, excess rain can cause a huge rush of damp growth that is difficult to mow. You will need to consider scaling back on your mowing schedule until the grass has time to dry out. This will work to prevent potential problems.

5. How much time do you have?

After your first mow of the season, you should plan on mowing every 3-5 days to create a clean, manicured appearance.

Edging your lawn is a great way to achieve a well-manicured and fresh appearance. Edging also prevents overgrowth onto sidewalks, driveways, and flowerbeds.

Edging Tips

Tip 1: Always mow the grass first. This way you’ll know how short or tall to trim your grass along the edge of your lawn. To prevent bare patches and weak grass roots by cutting your grass too low, do not cut more than 1/3 of your grass blades at a time.

Tip 2: It is a good idea to plan your path to know where you will make edging cuts. Before you get started, make sure you know where any buried hazards may be. You don’t want to run the risk of cutting them with your edger.

Tip 3: Choose a power or manual edger. Manual edgers will give you more control while power edgers (like string trimmers) will get the job done faster.

For other great options to improve your landscape, check out our variety of edgers, edging blades, and other trimming parts on our site.

Tip 4: Put on safety gear such as a sturdy pair of gloves, safety glasses, and a face mask.

Tip 5: After you have edged the perimeter, go back and check for jagged areas.

Tip 6: Manual edgers are a great choice for edging around curved garden beds because they create smoother edges.

Tip 7: Use edging shears to prune your shrubs and bushes. To achieve an even shape, go in small regular sections.

Tip 8: Clean up any debris and enjoy a lawn that is now easier to maintain.

Adding mulch requires time and effort, but it will make a big difference if you want a beautiful landscape and healthy plants. It will also improve your lawn's curb appeal.

Here are some steps to follow to get the job done.

Step 1: Start by calculating how much mulch to buy. You will need to measure the length and width of the space you are mulching. Online mulch calculators are a great resource for determining the number of bags you will need.

Step 2: Gather your tools.

  • Wheelbarrow (this provides easy transporting of mulch around your yard)
  • Shovel or pitchfork (if you’ve had scoops of mulch delivered to your home you will need one of these)
  • Rake (a bow rake is the best for spreading mulch)
  • Gloves

Step 3: Clean out your beds by removing dried up leaves, debris, sticks, and old mulch.

Step 4: Water your beds if they are dry.

Step 5: Remove weeds.

Step 6: Spread the mulch. You can shovel mulch from your wheelbarrow or shake mulch from your bag into small piles. Use your rake to spread the mulch. As you get close to the base of your plants, use your hands to spread the remaining mulch. It is important to keep mulch three inches away from the base of your plants and tree trunks. Mulch should be between two to four inches thick.

Step 7: Water after mulching to help settle the mulch into place.

By mulching your landscaping this spring, you’ll see healthier soil, less weeds, and improved water retention all season long.

Shop our store at https://onthewayoutdoor.com/ for any other lawn care needs!

 

 

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